Masseria Le Torri, owned by Sylvana Bonelli and Domenico Pugliese, is Italian country farmhouse hospitality at its best. You’re guaranteed a genuinely warm welcome in this farmhouse, loved for generations. ‘Here, between the olives, prickly pears, and laurel trees, stands our Masseria, a 17th-century farmhouse passed from father to son for generations, and now to Mimmo, my husband,’ says Silvana. ‘Today, it has become an open refuge for those who love our land and its traditions. Just like in the past, sheets smell fresh, the true flavours come out of the kitchen, and everything is pervaded by the welcoming sense of mamma Enza. For her, the rooms always needed to be ready, and the table set – just in case a relative, a friend, or a neighbour came to visit her. This is what it used to be, and still is.’
Fields of centuries-old olive and oak trees, orchards of almonds, cherries, lemons, oranges, tangerines, and figs surround the Masseria, and seasonal vegetables are enjoyed every day. Roses bloom in summer in the courtyard garden and the fragrance – combined with lavender, yarrow, and herbs – is heavenly in the early morning and evenings. In the distance, a glimpse of an old castle and a small trullo are reminders that life here remains unchanged.
‘Many pieces of handcrafted wooden furniture belong to our family and for us they are sentimental. And I’m very proud of our collection of old irons and porcelain,’ says Sylvana. During the renovation, which took nine years, they touched the structure as little as possible as original frescoes and Apulian limestone floors or chianca, dating back to the 1600s. Parquet floors were upcycled from an old house and the lovely arched windows are shuttered. Olive branches are used for rails ‘recalling the farmer’s habit of hanging his jacket on a tree in the fields,’ they explain. Soft, neutral fabrics offset calm whitewashed walls as they wanted to create minimal spaces, full of light, with the ‘charm of peasant simplicity’, local life, and ancient customs.
Life is simple here. ‘Our days are marked by the play of light created by the sun. In the morning everything is pink but at around 6 pm everything turns to gold – the gold that anticipates beautiful orange- or fiery red sunsets. Then at night, it feels like touching the moon and the stars,’ muses Sylvana who embraces farm life, just as Mimmo’s family have done for generations.
And what makes Domenico and Sylvana happiest? ‘Work for us is having friends in the house that we haven’t met yet!’
What we love!
- Workshops on organic olive oil soap, natural cosmetics, or beeswax candles (ancient technique from the 1700s) are held with Dr. Teodoro Ugone (minimum 6 guests, book ahead). All natural essential oils and herbs are from the gardens.
- Cookery classes are fun: these include traditional Puglian dishes, handed down for generations and cooked together here in the kitchen and enjoyed around a big table afterward.
- Yoga and massage courses may also be booked at a nearby spa.
What you need to know…
- Masseria Le Torri is easy to reach: it’s only 39 km south of Bari, and 85 km north of Brindisi.
- The caves of Castellana are worth a visit, as are the nearby pre-Roman town of Conversano (built-in 1054 as a Norman fortress), Monopoli (a characterful port city), Alberobello (UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its curious whitewashed Trulli houses with their conical stacked-stone roofs), and the buzzing hilltop town of Ostuni, that’s retained its medieval character and is known for its many good restaurants.
- Horse riding can be organized on the beach or in the surrounding countryside – and for the less adventurous, a romantic carriage ride might suit…
- Boat excursions give you a different perspective from the sea: book one just after you arrive as it’s the best way to get to know the coastline of Polignano.
- There are complimentary bicycles available for guests who enjoy cycling.
- Restaurants such as Antiche Mura and L’Osteria di Chichibio offer authentic southern Italian cuisine and seafood in Polignano a Mare, while or Vita Pugliese is the place to go in Castelano.
- Also, visit Bar Verso.
Please speak to us directly about combining other destinations and properties within the area for your travel itinerary.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon