Dreaming of an authentic stay in Italy? A secret gem, right in the heart of Collazzone, a characterful medieval town, Umbria Cottage is a cosy two-bedroomed find in historic Umbria. The décor is a nod to Italian design of the 70’s, with clean lines and superb attention to detail. Perched high above the Tiber River Valley and on the edge of the village, it has dreamy views over the pool of rolling hills, yet the entrance is off the bustling piazza just across from Collazzone’s medieval towers. The best of both worlds. A local pizzeria a short walk away, as well as a traditional pasta shop, a rosticceria (think succulent eggplant, roast chicken and artichokes) and a salumeria with specialties such as wild boar sausage. San Lorenzo is Collazzone’s patron saint, so the local church bears his name, as does the ancient Roman monastery in the nearby hills. Sound idyllic? It certainly ticks our boxes!
Imagine an eat-in kitchen with chestnut-beamed ceilings, two bedrooms with the finest linens and each with indulgent baths, heated floors and rain showers. The living room has a sunken seating area with a doorway out onto the private terraced gardens. Summer scents of jasmine, lavender, rosemary and sage fill the air, and lunch is served on the wooden table under the pergola. On the level below, a hidden pool literally extends outwards towards the views of the valley – a welcome oasis in the heat. As the sun sets, the garden lights up with welcoming strings of outdoor lights, criss-crossing above the alfresco kitchen and fireplace. Cooking here, with finds from local markets and delis and with views over the valley, is the perfect way to end another day in this magical spot.
Wake to the sounds of the bells of San Lorenzo church – on Sundays you’ll hear the choir. Live like a local: stroll to the piazza for a morning espresso, or enjoy an early evening spritz when everyone spills out onto the streets before dinner. Stay at least week – or two, or even three – as this is the most beautiful base to explore. Collazzone is more authentic than busier regions of Umbria and Tuscany yet you can expect classic Umbrian beauty right here: views across to the hilltown of San Terenziano, over chestnut forests and olive groves, all the way to the Appenine Mountains in the distance… what more could you wish for?
What we love!
• Collazzone: a truly authentic little village – where life hasn’t changed much.
• The décor: 70s Italian design makes a change from the many cluttered historic interiors in Italy.
• That pasta-making lessons can be arranged or a private chef can prepare meals for you at the villa or you can visit the Perugina factory for Baci chocolate-making lessons.
• Todi, an Umbrian hill town only 20 minutes south, has a beautiful piazza and superb restaurants (ask about the tiny enoteca that serves up excellent wines by the glass and delicious homemade strozzapreti pasta). Not far north, Deruta is the place to do ceramics workshops (famous for majolica) or painting lessons can be arranged.
• Perugia is reached easily on the electric minimetrò. Its cultural heart is the historic Corso Vannucci, or main avenue, with its famous Italian clothing stores, gelateria and cafes. Take time to explore its medieval streets and churches, find the unique medieval fountain and visit Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, home to Umbria’s greatest collection of 13th– to 18th-century masterpieces, including Perugino and altarpieces by Piero della Francesca.
• Assisi, the picturesque birthplace of St Francis, is 40 minutes’ away: wander through streets awash with bright geraniums in summer and fountain-filled piazzas on your way to see Giotto and Lorenzetti’s frescoes in the Basilica di San Francesco. Fan of frescoes? There are more by Benozzo Gozzoli’s in the charming town of Montefalco in the Museo Civico, in the former church of St Francis.
• Montefalco is home to Umbria’s famous Sagrantino wine but it’s also a charming and well-preserved village lined with artisan shops, excellent little trattoria and ristoranti. Other good wine producers are Caprai, Antonelli, Scacciadiavoli and Paolo Bea. The Lungarotti wine cellars in Torgiano are also nearby.
What you need to know ….
• It’s a two-hour drive from Rome or Florence but you can also fly into San Edigio airport in Perugia (regular connections from Milan and London/Stanstead). Umbria Cottage is about 30 minutes by car from Perugia.
• There are three levels and plenty of steps so Umbria Cottage is only suitable for children over 10.
• Both the cottage and the farmhouse are close enough to each other to book together if you’re a large group of family or friends. Read about Umbria Farmhouse here. <add live link>
• Spending a week or two here? Wonderful day trips will take you to Siena (2 hours’ drive) and Cortona (1 hour away) in Tuscany, but Bevagna, Spello, Orvieto, Cortona, Pienza or Montepulciano are also easy Umbrian and southern Tuscan towns to visit.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon