Searching for new world comfort with the charm of Old World Italy? You’ve found it: Umbria Farmhouse is set in Tiber River Valley and on the edge of the medieval town of Collazzone, in the heart of historic Italy. Views extend over cherry orchards, olive groves and a small vineyard to Piedicolle, another historic hilltop town nearby. Expect traditional terracotta floors and restored oak-beamed ceilings, a large limestone hearth handcrafted by local artisans and double doors leading to the garden. A deep sense of history prevails here… originally home to local farmers who worked the surrounding lands, the estate was the meeting place for the annual battuto, or ‘beating of the grain’.
The two original farmhouses were meticulously renovated and now have four spacious en-suite bedrooms, each one a delightfully calm sanctuary with quality linens and a private terrace leading to the garden. Fragrant jasmine and wisteria spill over pergolas and roses bloom prolifically in summer, while a thriving veggie garden is all yours to enjoy. The farmhouse kitchen is a treat with a chef’s stove, superb appliances and cookware – always the gathering place for friends and food lovers. Balmy evenings are spent outdoors in the alfresco kitchen with its exterior fireplace and grill… a dream for professional cooks who’ve love nothing more than gathering produce from nearby markets on day trips or in nearby hilltop towns.
Enjoy the best of both worlds here: you can experience bucolic farm life within a stone’s throw of an historic hilltop town where Umbria Farmhouse has a sister two-bedroomed property, just off the piazza, called Umbria Cottage – perfect as overflow if you’re planning a large family get-together in Italy and some would like to be on a peaceful farm, but others in a village. Here you can keep everyone happy! On Sundays, the bells of San Lorenzo church in nearby Collazzone ring out, and if you’re already enjoying your morning espresso on the piazza, you might even hear the choir singing. On hot summer evenings, everyone comes out for a stroll and spritz. Cafes are alive with daily chat and children and grandparents share stories. You’ll discover the local pizzeria, as well as a traditional pasta shop, a rosticceria (for the best roasted eggplant, chicken and artichokes) and a salumeria with wild boar specialties.
Life here has remained blissfully unchanged over the years… and if you stay at least week, you’ll never want to leave. Unpack just once, make this your base, and head out to explore: it’s far more authentic than busier regions of Umbria and Tuscany yet you can expect classic Umbrian beauty from your lounger around the pool if you feel like putting your feet up and staying put.
What we love!
• Authentic Collazzone: it’s pretty much off the tourist track.
• Cooks are spoilt for choice: pasta-making lessons can be arranged or a private chef can prepare meals for you at the farmhouse.
• Chocolate lovers can do Baci chocolate-making lessons at the Perugina chocolate factory.
• Deruta, just 20 minutes north, is the place to do ceramics workshops (it’s famous for majolica) or painting lessons can be arranged. Todi, 20 minutes south, has a beautiful piazza and superb restaurants (ask about the tiny enoteca that serves up excellent wines by the glass and delicious homemade strozzapreti pasta).
• Perugia is reached easily on the electric minimetrò. Its cultural heart is the historic Corso Vannucci, or main avenue, with its famous Italian clothing stores, gelateria and cafes. Take time to explore its medieval streets and churches, find the unique medieval fountain and visit Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, home to Umbria’s greatest collection of 13th– to 18th-century masterpieces, including Perugino and altarpieces by Piero della Francesca.
• Assisi, the picturesque birthplace of St Francis, is 40 minutes’ away: wander through streets awash with bright geraniums in summer and fountain-filled piazzas on your way to see Giotto and Lorenzetti’s frescoes in the Basilica di San Francesco. Fan of frescoes? There are more by Benozzo Gozzoli’s in the charming town of Montefalco in the Museo Civico, in the former church of St Francis.
• Montefalco is home to Umbria’s famous Sagrantino wine but it’s also a charming and well-preserved village lined with artisan shops, excellent little trattoria and ristoranti. Other good wine producers are Caprai, Antonelli, Scacciadiavoli and Paolo Bea. The Lungarotti wine cellars in Torgiano are also nearby.
What you need to know ….
• It’s a two-hour drive from Rome or Florence but you can also fly into San Edigio airport in Perugia (regular connections from Milan and London/Stanstead). It is a 30-minute drive from Perugia to Umbria Farmhouse.
• Both Umbria Farmhouse and Umbria Cottage are close enough to each other to book together if you’re a large group of family or friends. Read about Umbria here.
• The extras that make a difference: air conditioning, WiFi, retractable insect screens, television (with Sky), and a Bose docking station.
• Children are welcome and baby beds available.
• The Farmhouse may be rented to small groups of four (only mid-season and on a case-by-case basis).
• Spending a week or two here? Wonderful day trips will take you to Siena (2 hours’ drive) and Cortona (1 hour away) in Tuscany, but Bevagna, Spello, Orvieto, Cortona, Pienza or Montepulciano are also easy Umbrian and southern Tuscan towns to visit.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon