The West Coast National Park’s secret gem at Schrywershoek
Situated just south of Churchhaven, a tiny hamlet where you’ll find Schrywershoek Beach House, is an unexpectedly luxurious West Coast cottage set in an isolated spot on a postcard-perfect lagoon.
Originally built in the vernacular style – like many fisherman’s cottages here – long, low-slung and whitewashed with small shuttered windows to keep cool in summer, it occupies the most enviable spot on this little-known treasure lagoon.
It’s only when you stand at the water’s edge and look back at this seemingly humble ‘langhuisie’ or ‘long house’ that you realise it is anything but traditional. A corner glass window, stack-back shutters enclosing a deep outdoor stoep and fresh thatch suggest a contemporary makeover and modern-day comforts, a first clue of the transformation by none other than interior designer Clinton Savage who describes it as a ‘harmonious blend of nature and architecture while staying true to the roots of the structure’.
The inspiration? The awe-inspiring natural beauty of Schrywershoek, particularly the mesmerizing blue lagoon water and the soft, white beach sand. ‘We believe that it serves as a testament to the beauty and serenity that can be found in nature,’ says Clinton, ‘and the sense of calm in the interiors, now infused with a touch of modernity that integrated seamlessly with the existing house, allows guests to truly immerse themselves in the serenity of the environment’. Inviting bedrooms are cocooned in luxuriously soft fabrics, both layered and tactile. En-suite bathrooms are now spacious and dreamy with raw, hewn counter detailing offset by glossy artisanal tiling that literally glows in shafts of pure West Coast sunlight.
Life at Schrywershoek is simple… it’s totally off-grid, there are no cafes or restaurants, not even a shop, and the locals in this area fiercely protect their little corner of Eden on Langebaan Lagoon. The old-time lagooners are a fascinating breed. Their bloodlines are mixed with sailors and runaways, whalers and deserters. The ‘founding fathers’ include the Barsbys from Devon, Meyers from St Helena, Lloyds from America and De Montforts from France. Strange customs and traditions have been handed down through these families, such as sheepskin dances and secret herbal remedies.
Schrywershoek, a large farm that once extended across the entire peninsula from the lagoon to the Atlantic, was bought by the grandson of the current custodian in the 1960s. Three generations have renovated and extended this fabulously located hideaway, where only the front lawn separates the cottage from the lagoon, its turquoise colour a balm to the eye after the harshness of the veld in summer. And while the use of local materials and a natural colour palette may have been the order of the day over the decades, the cool, contemporary look of the latest refurb, offers a level of comfort and style never seen before in this corner of the world!
Back-to-basics barefoot lifestyle
One of the great privileges of staying at Schrywershoek Beach House is that guests have sole access to the southern end of the lagoon, which lies within the farm’s borders. You can wander for hours along these pristine shores, impossibly rich in bird life, and not see another soul. It’s now an idyllic modern-day retreat, where it’s possible to detox in sublime comfort, restore sleep patterns and to reconnect with those dearest to you.
Guests spend lazy days gazing at the parade of flamingos that stain the lagoon rosy pink or the snowstorms of terns falling from the sky to feed on pilchards. You might spot a family of ostriches ambling along the beach or eland browsing the brush. Go cycling in the national park or simply wander through the fynbos feasting your eyes on nemesias and mesembs, gousbloms and babianas.
In the evening, pour a tall iced drink and watch, mesmerised, as lagoon and sky dial through the colour spectrum. Then it’s time to light the candles, hurricane lanterns and braai fire, and settle in for a sociable gathering under a star-spangled sky utterly free of light pollution, serenaded by the faraway booming of surf on 16-Mile Beach. There’s truly no place quite like it in South Africa and this discreet yet sophisticated interior makeover serves as a testament to its spectacular location.
What we love!
- This luxuriously comfortable, barefoot lifestyle right at the water’s edge… and only 1.5-hours’ drive from Cape Town on the West Coast.
- What makes Schrywershoek Beach House so special is its isolated location and intimate relationship with the lagoon. The water changes hue throughout the day.
- A paradise for hikers and mountain-bikers or executives who simply need a quiet retreat, the ultimate escape from the world.
- It’s surrounded by pristine fynbos and is the perfect launchpad for viewing the spring flowers in Postberg’s wildflower reserve.
- Exploring the shoreline with its magnificent birdlife, especially the huge flocks of flamingos. Lagoon birding is exceptional with more than 250 species recorded. In summer the shallow, southern (Schrywershoek) part of the lagoon is home to the largest number of migrant waders in South Africa, including curlew sandpiper, little stint and turnstones. Look out for specials such as bar-tailed godwit, terek sandpiper and chestnut-banded plover.
What you need to know…
- This is 100% off grid with a good solar system. Sunshine is needed to recharge the batteries.
- Water is pumped into the water tanks from a water source. Please use with care.
- This is a place of tranquillity, please keep it this way.
- No dogs permitted as Schrywershoek is in the West Coast National Park.
- The water is undrinkable at Schrywershoek, you need to take your own drinking water.
- Coffee lovers need not worry: there are two coffee machines (beans)!
- If Schrywershoek Beach House is not available, you can also book Hout Huisie in Schrywershoek or other beautiful Churchhaven hideaways in the Perfect Hideaways portfolio.
- Please note that while swimming is allowed at Schrywershoek, no other water activities are permitted on this part of the lagoon (as per WCNP rules). If you wish to go SUPing or kayaking, you can do so further along the lagoon – about 1km away.
- Please note that as Churchhaven access is limited to homeowners and guests of Churchhaven homes only, guests at our Schrywershoek hideaways are not permitted to visit the village or beach there, and we at Perfect Hideaways are not allowed to share the gate codes. Guests at Schrywershoek may take a drive to the beautiful beach at Kraalbaai
Reviewed by Justin Fox and Michelle Snaddon