Exclusive-use Karoo lodge
Set in the remote Rooiberg Mountains, this sophisticated Karoo game lodge near Graaff-Reinet in the Eastern Cape combines the best of understated luxury with complete privacy.
This is the land of 250-million-year-old fossils, of hauntingly beautiful Karoo landscapes and inky black star-studded skies. Of tusk-toothed Dicynodonts who roamed the riverbeds long before dinosaurs and well-preserved rock art that tells the story of countless generations who no doubt sat in the welcome shade of the distinctive Shepherd’s Trees to swap hunting stories. They look out towards the fabled Plains of Camdeboo, across semi-arid landscapes that change from burnt orange at sunset to a myriad layers of slate blue – a mesmerising landscape that’s inspired countless writers and struck the hearts of adventurous travellers.
It took almost 20 years for the owners to find their dream game farm, a discovery that was one of the many benefits of time during the pandemic to reflect on deeply embedded roots and a heritage dating back to the 1820 Settlers in the Eastern Cape on one side, and Spanish heritage on the other. The couple, who met while students at Oxford, have always had a passion for conservation and community upliftment. Sights were set high, having been involved in the World Wildlife Fund for over two decades, as well as Ubuntu Pathways, an Eastern Cape nonprofit organisation. The entire family believe in the importance of connecting with nature, so when the land adjacent to an old boarding school friend’s farm became available, they jumped at the opportunity to invest in what they knew would be a Karoo gem, and where they could escape the high-paced bustle of their American lives and simply let go. ‘It is heaven on earth. It’s hard to go there and not fall in love with the land. It embraces you, “hugs” us when we arrive,’ say the family. ‘That’s what we wanted to capture in the lodge.’
‘Given its remote location the game farm has remained truly unspoilt, which is quite extraordinary. Located in the Rooiberg Mountains – a place of spiritual energy, where not only do you feel peace, but it fills you with joy. It’s really that beautiful. It doesn’t matter what time of year you are there, there’s always something to fall in love with. And of course, you feel the great expanse of the Karoo – and there hasn’t been a time when we haven’t enjoyed the dry heat,’ say the owners.
‘We wanted family and friends to experience the difference – hike, climb, explore in the game vehicle, on bikes or on foot. Everywhere is just buzzing with life. It’s special to walk in the bush among the aloes, succulents and spekboom.’ Equally precious are the 700- to 800-year-old Shepherd’s Trees with their gnarled white trunks and some of the world’s deepest tap roots.
‘The most important thing about the interiors was to create a relaxing retreat where you want to spend time with those you love. It was very important for us to create a sense of peace when you walk in. Life is fast-paced so giving yourself the opportunity to recharge is so important. So, when you arrive here you instantly feel at peace.’
Interiors inspired by timeless Karoo vistas and nature
‘For the lodge interior we chose muted colours as we felt it really important to bring the outdoors in with touches of “feminine colour” offsetting the gentle background of earthy hues. In the master suite, we have pops of orange reminiscent of aloe blossom and blue for the clear Karoo skies, whereas the room next door enjoys a muted raspberry, seen in the flowers and the sunsets through that window.’ It’s a house for all seasons, with heated bedrooms and a generous hearth for winter, but one of the joys of being here in summer is walking barefoot on luxurious solid-wood floors.
The entire 8 500ha malaria-free game farm is self-sufficient and off-the-grid. ‘You could thrive here without having to leave. We get the opportunity to stretch time when you’re there, which we love. For those who appreciate creature comforts, small indulgences and an attention to detail, the bathrooms and kitchen are a delight … right in the middle of this truly magnificent bush. Ultimately, you constantly feel relaxed and can live with less and as part of nature.’ There are so many areas to sit outdoors, whether it’s on the wraparound verandah with its extraordinary Karoo views or around a fire down at the boma – laid-back spaces to reconnect with families, be with friends.
Guests are hosted by Lynda and Garth, whose families farmed in the Karoo for generations and still own the adjacent property, but now live in the farm’s original Cape Dutch farmhouse. It dates back to between 1830-1860 so the English-Dutch gardens surrounding it are magnificent and tended to lovingly by Lynda. For the new lodge, horticulturist James Fisk has guided the more contemporary indigenous planting that softens the beautiful stonework done by local stonemasons.
A study of endangered and rare succulents is underway, building on the early research here of John Acocks, botanist and author of Veld Types of South Africa. His framed handwritten field notes, dating back to 1965, can be found in the living room. It is here, in the heart of the new Shepherd’s Tree Lodge, that all the passions of the owners will be shared with guests: private dinners at the lodge with the country’s most fascinating experts in wildlife conservation, prehistoric fossils, rare succulents, local tequila and Eastern Cape history will become one of the defining reasons to travel across the world to discover this ancient and seductive land called the Karoo.
What we love!
- Rare and endangered succulents – the diversity of plant life on the farm is as it was thousands of years ago.
- Absolutely no light pollution: the brilliance of stars in the Karoo night skies is spellbinding.
- That bespoke Karoo dinners with some of South Africa’s most respected experts will be planned around guests’ interests (advance booking essential).
- You will see buffalo, giraffe and a host of antelope including kudu, sable, eland, zebra, gemsbok, hartebeest, wildebeest, on private game drives. Or book a Big Five game drive at nearby Samara Karoo Reserve, 45 minutes away. In the summer, the bird life is extraordinary: spot the blue crane, kori bustard, black eagle, and a huge variety of seasonal birds.
- If you’re self-driving here, it’s worth bringing your mountain bike to explore the farm with a guide, or you have the option of an e-bike tour.
What you need to know…
- Shepherd’s Tree Lodge is 50 minutes’ drive from Graaff-Reinet and a three-hour drive from the gate to Port Elizabeth airport but there’s also a private 1.1 km airstrip on the farm (King Air and Pilatus land here). Charter flights (just over an hour from Cape Town and two hours from Joburg) give you a glimpse of the third highest peak in the Eastern Cape and the Plains of Camdeboo from the air.
- The Eastern Cape game lodge sleeps up to 12, ideal for multigenerational get-togethers, with an additional two-bedroomed cottage at the homestead if needed (or an option for pilot/guide accommodation).
- If you’re flying out of Port Elizabeth, you might want to leave earlier and take an informative guided visit to Ubuntu Pathways, a health, education and social services centre in Zwide township outside Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth). Ubuntu Pathways is a nonprofit organisation providing an integrated support system to vulnerable children.
- David McNaughton, Graaff-Reinet’s most knowledgeable local guide, can do a tour of the historic town and spectacular Valley of Desolation. Or you can visit The Owl House, an otherworldly museum in Nieu Bethesda, with over 300 sculptures by Helen Martins, reclusive artist-in-residence between 1945 and 1976. It’s also home to the Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre and a guided fossil walk can be done here or at Ganora Fossil Farm, 7km away. • If Shepherd’s Tree Lodge is not available on your dates, browse other luxury accommodation in the Eastern Cape.
Coming Soon!
- The Rubidge Fossil Collection, said to be the world’s largest private collection of prehistoric fossils, is to be housed in a world-class research and exhibition centre in Graaff-Reinet – watch this space for the opening of Karoo Origins in October 2024. Read more about Professor Bruce Rubidge, whose grandfather Stanley, started the collection.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon