By Anji Connell
Edited by Michelle Snaddon
Photo: Henrique Wilding
Nothing disrupts the tranquillity of De Kruis, only the daylight as it quietly slips through the farmhouse windows, along with the chirping, warbling, twittering, cheeps and chirrups of melodious bird song at dawn, a subtle exchange between the infinite natural surroundings of the vast Karoo.
These immense heart-lifting spaces have a unique, humbling kind of magic. Not surprisingly, this is what captured the owner’s hearts 25 years ago while honeymooning in the Karoo. It stirred something deep within them, cultivating a wish to one day have a place here which, up until three years ago, remained exactly that… until they stumbled, by chance, upon De Kruis.
De Kruis is in what’s known as the Tankwa Karoo, a vast and captivating region defined by its topography, geology, its climate, arid air, cloudless skies and extremes of heat and cold. It is a landscape of extraordinary beauty with a timeless allure, stretching over boundless plains and rugged dolerite-capped mountains in a compelling tapestry of endless horizons, sweeping vistas and a sense of grandeur that takes your breath away.
The couple bought the land and the small, neglected building – and, the rest, as they say, is history. Initially, the plan was to do almost nothing until they had more time and energy to devote to the project, but as the possibilities began to unfold, they found themselves dedicating body and soul to the project. Their son, on a pandemic-induced gap year, headed out with a team to collect stone from the farm to build the walls, and to eventually cajole building companies to undertake the unbelievably tricky 8km driveway to deliver brick and sand. They had an amazing building team from a nearby farm living on site for months on end to painstakingly restore the building in the old-fashioned way, using hammer and chisel, and even staying up at night to get the watering system going to feed the newly planted garden.
Many of us dream of having a holiday home. De Kruis offers us the opportunity without any of the headaches, financial and otherwise. You get the excitement of finding a hidden gem in a location that resonates with you, elicits feelings of joy, excitement, thrill, awe and, most importantly, a release of tension. Shoulders loosen, a big sigh escapes, pulses quicken, your eyes widen, and you can’t hold back a great big smile — and this is how it feels when you walk into Perfect Hideaways’ new kid on the block, De Kruis — a beautifully restored farmhouse holiday rental in the strikingly beautiful Tankwa Karoo.
And I promise that what they have created will steal your heart, too!
The journey to De Kruis in itself was a tonic. As we drove nearer, the extraordinary nature of this breathtaking landscape and its sprawling vistas slowly unfolded. Dusty plains dotted with uniquely resilient flora painted a picture of undisturbed tranquillity, unchanged for centuries Winding roads and dried river beds eventually led to a dirt track that needs a 4×4, (you are welcome to leave your vehicle at the manager’s newly restored farmhouse, and they will escort you to De Kruis, a journey of about 45 minutes). We passed a sheep shearing hut, a picture-perfect cottage, a ruin with a thatched roof, and finally, we came across what looked like a small settlement or traditional Cape hamlet… De Kruis a lovingly restored farmhouse nestled among this haunting landscape’s rugged and untouched beauty.
Here, weathered stone walls and Karoo vernacular architecture meld into the untouched landscape. There’s nothing quite like scent of the dry Karoo air that greets you on arrival. De Kruis’s carefully preserved heritage and timeless ambience is entirely charming. An ornate glass chandelier hangs above the farmhouse dining table, reflecting and twinkling in the light, and a pair of Vintage ‘Deco-ish’ pendants hang proudly above the wooden island. The turquoise retro-style fridge-freezer is totally at home, along with incredible carved stone sinks, and an Aga. It’s remarkably cool for a hot day, the property off-grid, but the luxury of a blast of air con is so welcome, a perfect antidote to the scorching 40-degree heat outside. A gorgeous pair of old doors begged to be opened and – wow, the heat was intense!
The house is remarkable; gives an incredible feeling of calm. De Kruis has been lovingly restored and extended, with exacting attention to detail. The owners have perfectly preserved the charm of bygone days, successfully adding their personality to the mix.
Timeless Karoo vernacular
The vernacular architecture of the farmhouse reflects the region’s unique identity and cultural heritage, where traditional Karoo-style homes are characterised by simple yet sturdy construction using local stone and thatch materials. Thick walls helped regulate interior temperatures, and sprawling stoeps (verandahs) provide shaded spaces for social gatherings and respite from the harsh sun. The farmhouse has all of this and more — as delightfully, the owners have added an architectural timeline. The land was originally a grazing farm, with a very modest shepherd’s hut with a flat roof.
The owner’s idea was to create what looks like a home that has evolved organically over time and includes local vernacular. Brakdak, or flat-roof architecture contrasts the Cape Dutch thatch roof section, whereas other parts of the building are Cape Georgian. Finally, the corrugated walls nod to the many mining towns that sprung up along the Witwatersrand during South Africa’s turn-of-the-century gold rush. A folly serves as the latest addition, which is there in part to put a smile on your face by adding an element of puzzlement, and part nod to the Arts and Crafts Movement, evident in the carved wooden panels. Just as they were made in years gone by, these are handcrafted buildings. They have a simplicity, an elegance, and a joyous sense of place.
Homely yet styled interiors
For the decoration, the owners felt very strongly that they wanted the interior to have a homely feel. Some of the furniture was inherited and their children remember pieces from spending time with ‘Ouma’, their grandmother. Some was collected and kept in what the owners called a running-way cupboard knowing that they would one day want to use it somewhere. Other furniture and collectables were bought specifically for De Kruis.
Each of the bathrooms at De Kruis is sublime: a Karoo ode to simplicity. Photographs: Obsessively Creative Directed (left) and Henrique Wilding (right)
There’s a music room, a very grown-up sitting room with a stoep, complete with seating, cosy built-in double lounging beds and a braai. A Crittall glass-fronted library is accessed from the stoep, the sitting room and the most fabulous master suite, complete with a wood-burning stove, and French doors leading out to the vast Karoo landscape. The bathroom features a freestanding bathtub and a fast and furious indoor and outdoor shower. To the opposite end of the house there are three further en-suite bedrooms, two with outdoor verandahs, or stoeps to front and back with seating, and an outdoor shower in the end room. Plus, there is a walled garden with a lawn, a kitchen garden, a very active frog pond, and a striking covered dining pavilion with a large wood-burning fireplace, two squishy, double day beds, and two roof terraces – one is for sundowners, and one is for stargazing ateach end of the main building.
The result is an effortless counterbalance of rustic elements.
The only problem is that the master suite is the room everyone wants. Whereas all the rooms are lovely, the master is sprawling. The farmhouse is perfect for a family but if couples are sharing, there will need to be some discussion – or pulling straws!
Idyllic oasis
Last but by no means least, in addition to the enchanting elements of the homestead the design of the pool is an ode to minimalism, blending seamlessly with the Karoo’s rugged aesthetics. A remarkable reservoir-style circular pool sits at the end of a winding boardwalk, set away from the farmhouse. This sparkling haven serves as a refreshing respite in the Karoo heat and a further invitation to indulge in the tranquillity of the Karoo but equally, a reminder of the vital importance of water in sustaining life in this arid region. A metaphorical wellspring, nurturing not only our physical being but also our soul, it’s a sanctuary from the harshness of the Karoo, embracing us with its organic design. It is here that time stands still, suspended as we float serenely, the symphony of birdsong and the gentle rustle of the wind through the Karoo shrubbery providing a soothing backdrop, inviting thoughts to drift and dreams to take flight.
Exploring the farm
The untamed wilderness that is the Tankwa Karoo begins at the front doorstep. Hikes through rugged terrain reveal unique plant species, resilient wildlife and hidden waterholes that sustain life in this arid landscape. It’s easy to lose yourself in the ever-changing kaleidoscope of colours during the day and night. Magnificent sunsets, awe-inspiring stars, a rich culture and history, captivating geology, vibrant flora and fauna, and the unique vernacular heritage of the Karoo lend a wonderful sense of timeless fascination and tranquillity. As daylight gently fades, the Tankwa Karoo unveils its greatest masterpiece: African sunsets that paint the horizon with vibrant hues. As we sip sundowners on one of the two sprawling roof terraces, captivated by the kaleidoscope of colours, the sky transforms from golden yellow to fiery orange and deep purple, casting its final enchanting glow before nightfall. The moon, whether it’s the radiant full moon casting an ethereal glow over the landscape, or the slender crescent, it fills the night sky with gentle luminosity, transforming the Karoo’s silent darkness into a scene resplendent with otherworldly charm.
Celestial skies
When darkness descends, the real entertainment commences – the Tankwa Karoo presents a celestial wonderland. Far away from the city lights, the night sky is adorned with countless twinkling stars, transforming the sky into a celestial masterpiece. The Milky Way stretches its luminous tendrils across the heavens, inviting us to contemplate the mysteries of the universe. Underneath this celestial canopy, time seems to stand still, allowing us to revel in the sheer beauty of the night.
Retreat from everyday life
A holiday should be an escape from everyday life, a break in our routine, in which we are simultaneously surprised, delighted and made to feel welcome and comfortable. Where we stay can make or break your vacation. Our surroundings should resonate with us and make us feel good. It should be a magical place. They should be uplifting, possess a ‘lived-in-ness’, a feeling of history and a connectedness with the location – a sense of place. We all want to know where we are in the world.
The simple building lines draw inspiration from local culture, bringing a meaningful and tangible sense of place, an appreciation of local heritage and artisan craftsmanship. De Kruis is everything we thought it would be and more. The house brings to mind the profound words of Sir Winston Churchill: ’We shape our buildings, and afterwards, they shape us’.
Architecture touches us from the day we are born; it provides the stage for human dramas, routines and rituals. This happy place has been saved for future generations to love and enjoy. Like people, they have personalities, quirks, and sensibilities, and thankfully De Kruis retains its character.
Moments of reflection
De Kruis farmhouse offers a holistic retreat for guests seeking rejuvenation, relaxation and wellness. The house fully integrates with the surroundings: this is a special place where sustainable architecture, indoor-outdoor living, biodiversity, and a deep connection to the land foster a holistic and harmonious lifestyle. A deep interaction with the environment promotes a greater understanding and respect for the intricate relationship between people and nature – allowing deep immersion in the Karoo’s intrinsic beauty and developing a profound connection to, and an appreciation for, the natural world around us. Its setting truly is a biophilic experience – walking and hiking amidst the vastness of the Karoo, or yoga and meditation in secluded corners of the property, of which there are many. The indulgent and powerful outdoor showers and relaxing dips in the deep freestanding tubs provide an opportunity for deep introspection and inner healing. Daily routines can be discarded and replaced by moments of stillness and reflection.
Moments in time: winter days, hearty soups, breakfasts on the stoep. Photo: Obsessively Creative Directed
Authentic local flavours
Our wonderful hosts prepared dinner for us on the first evening. We dined on a gastronomic delight of unctuous roasted pork belly with the most fabulous crackling, the crispiest roast potatoes, gratinated broccoli and scrummy gravy. For dessert, chocolate mousse adorned with more-ish chunks of Bar One at the farmhouse table in the outdoor dining pavilion under pretty hanging lanterns, was where we learnt that these culinary creations were inspired by the rich agricultural heritage of the Karoo. With every bite, we savoured unique flavours and felt a deeper connection to the land and its people. We sat watching the roaring log fire – yes in 34 degrees (but it can get cool in the evenings – and it’s wonderful to look at), while the red sky dissipated and the giant glowing moon peeked over the mountain top.
As our time at the farmhouse drew to a close, we had a renewed sense of calm and appreciation for the simplicity of life among nature’s marvels. This remote haven transcended mere accommodation, serving as a gateway to connect with the essence of the Karoo. Whether seeking solitude, adventure, or a deeper understanding of the world, this timeless retreat provides an enchanting escape from the demands of modern existence.
De Kruis invites you to embark on a journey of serenity and solitude, a respite from the chaotic pace of modern life. It’s a place to celebrate, gather with friends and family and just ‘be’. Where you will be cool in the summer and warm in the winter, with roaring fires ready to warm chilly nights, inviting cosy evenings filled with storytelling and reflection.
HOW TO GET THERE
De Kruis is best reached in a 4×4, but it’s possible to park at the manager’s house and be driven the last stretch if you’re arriving in a hired car without good clearance.
Take your time and make a road trip of it: pop into historic Matjiesfontein on the way and step back in time. Stretch your legs, before you turn off the N1 towards De Kruis, and wander around this one-horse railway village that simply oozes charm and timelessness. Founded in 1884 by Scottish railwayman James Douglas Logan, it was visited in Victorian times for its attraction as a health spa. The dry Karoo air remains an attraction today, but in 1975 the entire village was declared a National Heritage Site. Since then, it has lovingly maintained and nurtured by hoteliers who were passionate about its history. It’s easy to be seduced by the romance here: literary genius Olive Schreiner was resident here (a cottage is named after her and Rudyard Kipling apparently visited her here), it was fortified in the Boer War to become headquarters of the Cape Command, and became a refuge for Jamieson Raid reformers. You can get married in the chapel, watch the luxurious Blue Train stop in from time to time, or simply immerse yourself in its living history or have a cup of tea and scones, and continue on into the deepest Karoo …
Once off the N1, the road ahead takes you towards Sutherland, home to The Southern African Large Telescope (SALT) at the world-renowned astronomical centre on the hill just outside the town. Definitely worth booking an appointment to visit… but De Kruis is on the left in the direction of the Tankwa Karoo National Park. At this point in time, you’ll lose mobile phone reception be sure you have the directions from Perfect Hideaways to get there!
- For availability and bookings, email us at Perfect Hideaways now
- Discover more Karoo hideaways or explore other handpicked hideaways in the rest of South Africa.
