What a wonderful moment it is, for the discerning traveller, to stumble across a place that instantly whitewashes any pre-existing visions you had of your destination and have them replaced with that little thing you’ve been seeking since hitting the road for the very first time. A place that harbours the intent of travel, merging those beaten and lesser-beaten paths into a wandering utopia of playfulness. Where the rhythm of the land beats in harmony with the rhyme and the reason of its dwellings. A place that’s overtly timeless, consciously curated, wild and whimsical.
It summons you into its quirky yet cosy and convivial spaces, with a subtle nod as if to commend you on your discovery. It takes one to know one. My taste is as classical as yours, my stories are as intrepid as yours, and my heart – for the foreseeable future – shall also be yours. So it happened at Saint Verde, on the 50-acre farm in the mistbelt forests of KwaZulu Natal, the home of Neville Trickett and his wife Sharon – true trailblazers and trend forecasters, revered by all as national gems and geniuses.
Settled on the rich rural soil of the Midlands, just a short drive from the farming village of Howick and overlooking the Dargle Valley – surrounded by indigenous forests, flowing rivers, succulent and tropical fern gardens, meandering walking trails and rolling grasslands – Saint Verde, affectionately named after the fictitious Patron Saint of Green, captivates your imagination and escorts you on a mythical journey of inspiration. The farmhouse and its dwellings – dating back to 1887 – have been nurtured and restored over time, revealing the owners’ fantastical storytelling and finesse in style throughout the home. Every piece of furniture, every ornament, every picture and painting, every lampshade, every piece of natural history, every sentimental item of significance has been curated with intention. As if in a museum, yet without any pretence. Exposed yellowwood floors, ironstone and black slate walls, Carrara marble and tall glass doors and windows create a canvas with layers of rich velvets, Egyptian cottons and luxury linens, porcelain, silver, floral prints and an abundance of foliage. Signature pieces by Joan Nelson, and Walton Ford, woodcut Japanese prints and an impressive photographic portfolio hangs adjacent to apothecary chests, French cabinetry, writing desks, deep sofas, ottomans and languid loungers, a Gregor Jenkin dining table and many antique collectables that have been sourced from demolished stores.
Three bedrooms with their ever-so-inviting beds meeting free-standing bathtubs and window seats beside sash windows – allowing the natural light to flood in and the views of the valley to unravel – occupy the top level. There is also a wonderful pyjama lounge for comfy seclusion from the entertaining on the ground level. Feasting occurs around long tables in the typical farm-style kitchen that is fully equipped with not only the best appliances but a couple of prepping stations and plenty of seating for all to gather together. Then walk out into the amazing courtyard shaded by the bay and lemon trees… another wonderful space to contemplate the journey that drew you to this hideaway. The sprawling living and entertaining spaces flow into the magnificent conservatory, adorned in more foliage and comfy velvet seating, opening out onto the lawn and verdant nature that surrounds it.
Being embraced in nature is part of the Saint Verde experience – out in the wilderness, exploring the boundless trails, walking along riverbanks, through indigenous forest, swimming in the dam, and picnicking beside the water. Perhaps a braai before the treasure hunt? Resident chickens will be sauntering around the garden anticipating your return. The fires will be lit, the music setting the tone for the evening’s antics of games in the living room and, of course, the next meal around one of the many lovely, long dining tables. Those heavenly beds await … You’ll drift off with the owls, gently reaffirming your presence with their tweets, yet another wonderful moment for the discerning traveller. As you lie there recalling the day’s adventures, anticipating what’s still to come, you finally get to understand that incessant call for travel. To discover magical places like Saint Verde.
What we love!
- Every room has a fascinating tale to tell, without it appearing overcrowded or misplaced. The charm of the farmhouse is endlessly endearing.
- The main bedroom has two French antique king beds alongside one another because that’s how we should rest at night. It also has dressing tables with tall mirrors and writing desks and things that should really be considered when stepping into a dreamy existence of another time.
- Opening the large, stackable French doors off the living area, onto the verandah and into the landscape, allowing the views of outside to infiltrate the interior.
- The abundance of birds and wildlife that frequent the gardens include bushbuck, reedbuck, spotted genet, porcupines, bush pigs, Samango monkeys, whooping cranes, purple crested louries and sunbirds. With a succulent and tropical fern garden brimming with unique plant species that have been collected for over 40 years, it’s no wonder the ecosystem is thriving.
What you need to know…
- You’ll get to enjoy great natural drinking water with the main water source being located just up the road from the main farmhouse, into holding tanks that stream into water purifiers. The piping-hot water is also a wonderful treat. There are backup generators on the property, too. Power will always be in supply.
- It’s a wonderful venue for intimate weddings and special occasions.
- The nearest sophisticated supermarket is in Howick – about 20kms away on the tar road – where you’ll find the major essentials. For everything else, you can venture to Piggly Wiggly for hot bakes and bread, cheese and wine and some little treats to accompany the spread.
- Whatever the weather, the farm caters to those hot and humid days and those frosty nights. The cell phone signal and Wi-Fi are top-notch. Neville will welcome you in, show you the ropes and leave you to your own devices.
Reviewed by Colleen Ogilvie