Dreaming of endless swims in warm water, lunches at relaxed tavernas and a great place to book for a family holiday but simply not sure where to go in Greece? Three Stone Villas, just two hours’ drive from Athens on the island of Évia, is a charming cluster of stone houses built on a hillside overlooking a private beach shaded by ancient olive trees. Villa Lofus (meaning Hill), Villa Thasala (Water) and Villa Oranues (Sky) all have blissfully serene and simple interiors, but differ slightly in layout. They’re on the most remote side of the island of Évia (or Euboea – or simply Εύβοια in Greek), which is long and narrow – about 180 km long but as narrow as 6 km wide in parts. With rough mountainous interiors and roads that often end up in dirt tracks along the coast, Évia is far from your typical tourist destination.
Thankfully there’s not an umbrella in sight on the beach below and days are spent lazing in hammocks and day beds in the shade or or on the water. Explore pretty coves by kayak or SUP, go for a dip in the thermal springs nearby or visit authentic tavernas run by families who have been there for generations. Discover historical monasteries, castles and ruins, hike to hidden lakes and waterfalls… all to the ever-present soundtrack of cicadas, especially in summer. Food is generous and unfussy: salty olives, dolmades, moussaka, succulent figs, a sip of ouzo. Life is simple here – and that’s why we love it. It’s not difficult to get to, and once you’re here you can live like a local, immerse yourself in the island’s daily rhythms and have a real holiday.
All three original stone houses were sensitively renovated using local materials and each one is linked by natural walkways, many of which have been there for years. Interiors are by Amira Low whose style is contemporary and uncluttered, with an eye for layered textures and beautiful linens, all of which offset the beauty of natural stone walls. Come sunset, the pool is the place to gather with its endless views across the Aegean. Dolphin are often sighted here and the colours ever-changing, depending on the weather. Spring and autumn are particularly lovely here, before the crowds descend on Greece and when hiking the hills and exploring neighbouring islands is easy. It’s a beautiful spot to start a Greek holiday, far from the maddening crowds of Mykonos and with not a nightclub in sight.
What we love!
• Having a private beach shaded by olive trees – today, it’s a rare treat to be on your own in Greece.
• That tourists don’t seem to have discovered Évia yet – we only met locals and loved meeting families who all come together to run their tavernas in summer, and head back to their farms in the hills in winter. You must visit Club Bazaar with its macrame-style beach umbrellas and four-poster sun beds.
• That you can have a large family gathering here: you can book all the houses together. Each one is slightly different and they all have magnificent views.
• Having the use of SUPs – it’s such fun to get to the taverna this way!
• That we could meet the locals at the hot springs nearby every day.
• The decor: unlike many Greek villas, you can expect quality bedding, contemporary styling and beautiful exposed stone.
What you need to know…
• Hire a car at Athens airport: it’s only about two hours’ drive and you cross over to the island via a bridge – no need to book ferries or wait in queues.
• Once you’re through the main town of Halkídha, which is not terribly attractive – like many Greek towns – you head up into the hills and discover little villages (Illya is the closest) and farms. We loved Limni, where we found some great beach cafes and tavernas, all reasonably priced.
• Each house faces a slightly different direction for privacy, and all are within gated grounds.
• Take a day trip to the north of the island to explore untouched villages along the coast, explore the monastery at Galatáki (remember to dress respectfully and pack a head scarf).
• Book a ferry ahead if you want to go across to Alónissos, Skópelos or Skíathos.
• Évia, the second largest island in Greece after Crete and the third largest in the eastern Mediterranean, is located near the Prefecture of Attica.
• Try and time your flights in and out of Athens so that you don’t have to stay the night.