Welcome Little Sable… the ‘free-spirited sister’ to Sable Alley. Originally the site of the Pangolin photographic camp, it’s unobtrusive as it’s tucked into clusters of mature trees overlooking the shimmering grasslands and waterways of the game-rich 200 000ha Khwai Private Reserve. This is, without doubt, one of Botswana’s iconic locations: bordered by Moremi in the south, Savuti up north, and the Khwai Community Reserve in the east, it doesn’t get better than this.
As its name suggests, ‘inspiration came from the sable antelope, with its predominantly black coat that sometimes shows elements of charcoal-grey, the creamy white tones on its face, and deep gold, almost ochre shades turning to a burnt orange on the tips of the ears,’ says interior designer Tracy Kelly. The grasses are also worth a special mention: ‘they’re spectacular here, especially when the wind blows or golden light shines through the beautiful twirls and spirals’. All of these elements are thoughtfully reflected, particularly in the textures and patterns of locally woven basket ware, rugs and throws.
Patterning is kept to a minimum, with the result that the framed views are the focus, not the interiors. Anyone who loves the outsized winged, combretum-pod installation at Sable Alley, will recognise a thread in Kelly’s style, yet this is not a new-build. Much of the camp’s footprint existed already, and in keeping with Natural Selections’ sustainable ethos, furniture was creatively upcycled wherever possible.
It’s the open-plan living area that is Tracy Kelly’s favourite… seasoned safari visitors often spend time here relaxing and frequently have extraordinary sightings from the comfort of their hammock or swinging chair. The pool, with its upstairs viewing deck and bar area, is a gathering point at all hours of the day – for early swims, lunches, sundowners. Even private dinners can be served here. It overlooks a favourite grazing spot for zebra and ancient footpaths loved by elephant, but if you listen out at night for the lions, often heard roaring in the evening as they take the infinitely less risky water crossing over the nearby bridge on their evening hunt.
The Okavango Delta generally floods its intricate channels between May and early October, so if game viewing from a mokoro is on your bucket list, this is the best time of year to visit as there’s little rain yet seasonal channels begin to swell, and waterways literally glisten under wide blue skies … the truly magical phenomenon that is the Okavango Delta.
Sightings are just sensational from the water. Game viewing at this level is a game changer, as the mokoro glides silently through water lilies or ‘tswii’ and into reed-lined channels or deeper tea-coloured waterways, stopping every so often to watch as herds of animals drift down to drink and frolic in these sweet waters – especially on hot days and after a long dry season. No words can describe the extraordinary privilege of witnessing the fascinating hierarchy of herds as they move in and out of sight. These sightings are not to be rushed… this is a time to quietly observe the touching patience of elephant mothers as they teach babies how to use their trunks, while young males get up to mischief on the side lines. To watch for big cats, often lurking along the treelines where animals wait their turn to drink. To listen to lechwe deftly moving at speed through the watery plains. To disconnect from the outside world and reconnect with nature. You’ll become keenly aware, suddenly realising that a dainty painted reed frog is watching you intently, and you’ll spot birdlife close-up in the reeds. And in turn, it’s everyone’s responsibility to keep a respectful eye out for hippos and crocs… one of life’s bucket-list experiences, for sure.
As wilderness destinations go, this is one of the best-managed concessions with very few other vehicles and people around. In addition, wild dogs, serval cats, honey badgers, and even the elusive pangolin are sometimes spotted here. This is authentic Botswana at its best.
What we love!
• With eight tents, Little Sable is small enough to book out exclusively, yet each luxury tent is tucked well into the trees, giving maximum privacy (and close encounters with elephant from time to time!)
• You can punt through the waterways of Khwai on a mokoro (dugout canoe) excursion or take a boat trip (water levels permitting), a completely different option game viewing in a vehicle.
• No WiFi and hairdryers here: time to detox!
• Children over the age of six are welcome.
• That you can spend a night sleeping under the stars. Skybeds platforms must be pre-booked; and are only open April to October.
• Ground-level hides offer yet another variation on game viewing – highly recommended.
What you need to know…
• Little Sable is open all year round because sightings are good every month –varying only with the seasons and water levels.
• December is traditionally the rainy season, often a favourite with photographers who enjoy moody lighting that comes with a spectacular build-up of cumulous clouds against bright blue skies, before switching to dark thundery skies followed by bursts of sunshine that changes everything within minutes. Greens glisten against charcoal grey skies; grasses literally sparkle and birdlife is rewarding.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon