‘Far away from everything, yet magically close’ … words that make us jump with joy when sleuthing for authentic places to stay in Italy – and Follonico, a charming boutique-style hotel certainly delivers. At the end of a winding dirt road, you’ll discover a classic stone 200-year-old farmhouse surrounded by organic veggie and herb gardens, olive groves, an inviting pool and rolling Tuscan landscapes. Inside, expect giant hearths, old stone arches, exposed beams and ancient thick walls.
‘To us Follonico is a timeless way of living,’ say the owners, ‘following the seasons’ natural ever-changing rhythm. A living breathing thought. A moment in time, a melody caught in a breeze, always changing, ever so slowly. Follonico is a place to breathe, to touch, to listen, to smell and to see: a place to simply and gently be!’ Music to our ears, indeed. It’s a destination in itself, with plenty to explore in the area either by car, on an e-bike or hiking trails that they’ve put together with an environmental guide. Owners Fabio and Suzanne live on site, as do geese, chickens and sheep, and Fabio is an aspirant chef and wine lover, so his dinners are a treat. There’s no place better than to sit at the kitchen table while he prepares what he calls his ‘blind-tasting’ menu, and chat to him about Tuscan wine and olives, or watch him baking bread.
All the suites are individually decorated all have views or flow directly through shuttered doors to the pretty garden. They can be booked separately, unless you would like exclusive-use of the whole farmhouse. The light-filled, loft-style Rosso Tramonto has pretty views and gorgeous old beams; historic Verde Intenso is reached via a private balcony up a few stairs and is set on three different levels; Blu Notte is the largest suite on the first floor with huge open fireplace (it was the original farm kitchen); Alba Chiara can do twin beds or a king, plus it has a garden entrance which makes it ideal for families. Everything here is authentic and true to self: whether it’s the Busatti linen or heavenly eco-organic Biofficina Toscana amenities… and the rest is up to you. Immerse yourself in the rural charms of this Tuscan hideaway and you’ll never want to leave.
What we love!
• The owners speak Italian, English, German and Dutch. Fabio is Italian and Suzanne is Dutch.
• Breakfast is included but an informal ‘blind-tasting’ dinner menu (all ingredients produced here) may be booked prior or on arrival. It is at 8pm on a Monday, Thursday and Saturday.
• Fabio’s love of Tuscan wines is reflected in his well-stocked cellar – ask about his favourite vintages before you head out to go wine tasting.
There’s SO much to do in the area and while the art and architecture of Florence and Siena are usually the main attractions, there’s an authentic Italy waiting to be explored while here:
• Don’t miss the beautiful town of Montepulciano, with lunch at Podere il Casale, coffee in Monticchiello. Make time to visit one of the oldest thermal baths of Tuscany: Bagno Vignoni. End the day with an aperitivo in Pienza overlooking the Val D’Orcia.
• Besides being one of the best wine producing areas (look out for the famous Brunello), Montalcino and the countryside around it is dotted with castles and pretty abbeys. Don’t miss the Gregorian chants at the Abbey of Sant’Antimo (several times a day) and be sure to go into the monastic pharmacy, their ‘ancient treasure room’ of body care products made with natural essences and medicinal herbs, or try their blonde and amber beers, another secret Abbey recipe. You’ll find Brunello di Montalcino at two small wineries nearby. Podere le Ripi is a biodynamic winery 1km from the Abbey and Uccelliera is 200m away.
• Southern Val D’Orcia is less well known: garden lovers should visit the formal gardens at La Foce on the way to Castiglioncello del Trinoro (a rustic back route), but the highlight for many is the spa experience at Bagni San Filippo, a lovely natural setting with several pools.
• Make time to have lunch at Ristorante Daria (included in the 2022 Michelin Guide and the Gambero Rosso Guide). Set in the medieval village of Monticchiello, it’s somewhat of a foodie pilgrimage for those in the know. Cookery classes are held here from March to November.
• Take a beautiful drive to Lucignano d’Asso an historic village with magnificent Tuscan views – look out for an authentic grocery and wine shop on the square, open March to November.
What you need to know…
• The nearest major airport is Rome (about 2h30 minutes’ drive by car) but you can also fly into Florence (1h30 by car), but allow time for the final part of the journey here… it is a winding dirt road and fairly remote, even though the property is not far off major routes. The closest village is charming Montefollonico.
• That it is family friendly, with lovely gardens, and the owners and their children live on the property. The hotel is open to babies younger than a year, and kids over 9. No additional beds are allowed.
• For an extra charge, well-behaved small dogs may stay too (on request and for a fee) but they must always be on a leash and cannot sleep on beds, no matter their size!
• The saltwater pool has superb views of the Tuscan countryside and is open for swimming from 15 April to 15 October.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon