Palazzo Tafuri – Beautifully restored by Count and Countess d’Espous, this gem of a boutique hotel with its serene, designer interiors is surrounded by the historic palaces and piazzas of baroque Nardò. Yet its transformation stretches back to 1860 when the influential Tafuri family enlarged the original building to add grandeur. Architecturally speaking, it’s a ‘Palazziata’, typical of the 19 th century and its elegant façade contrasts beautifully with the elaborate decorative detailing of the neighbouring 8 th century Santa Chiara monastery and church – one of the oldest in southern
Italy.
In spring, the scent of lemon and orange blossom drifts in from the courtyard, which was added by the Tafuri’s to allow carriages to enter, and the original stables now house the very cool Bacco & Crudi bar. At first light, the sun streams in here and the unmistakable aroma of coffee fills the air. This is the best time to head out for a quick walk around the neighbourhood, just as Nardò’s twisting alleyways and characterful street café open up. Come back for cooling swim before heading out to explore.
Salento is a peninsula between the incredibly beautiful Adriatic and the Ionian coastlines. Endless rocky shorelines with white sandy beaches give way to ancient olive groves with characterful villages dotted in between. The beaches and coves at Santa Maria al Bagno or Santa Caterina are a short drive away, with traditional cafés for a light lunch of local delicacies. But for a truly authentic Salento dinner back at the Palazzo restaurant, Chef Antonia Capoccello, who was born and bred here, will have a delicious menu lined up with seasonal ingredients sourced daily.
Return from your day out in time for sundowners on the rooftop before a memorable dinner downstairs. In the heat of summer, the vivid colours of bougainvillea glow as the sun begins to set and gloriously hot days turn into balmy nights. Walk downstairs on the grand staircases added by the Tafuri’s and take time to look at the original frescoes they commissioned. Today’s interiors feature artwork with a thoughtful nod to the past: each of the 17 suites and rooms exhibits striking photographic prints by Karl Blossfeldt, a passionate botanist born in 1865, and contemporary photographs of local plants by Salento artist Rocco Casaluci. Countess d’Espous is President of the French Botanic Park Association and her choice of botanical art is also an equally meaningful tribute to the Zimara family who owned the Palazzo family before the Tafuris. Mr Zimara was a successful herbalist and pharmacist. This is Italy, of course, and
custodians of these beautiful heritage buildings take their ownership seriously. Thank goodness – this is what makes a visit to Italy so special. And being in the heart of the historic district, in front of the 8 th century Santa Chiara monastery and church – one of the oldest in southern Italy – this is a truly immersive and utterly romantic experience.
What we love!
- Nardò is an absolute gem: get lost in its historic twisting alleyways, follow the locals and look up!
- The architectural details are a treat – the city dates back to 460 BC.
- Porto Selvaggio nature reserve: it stretches from Santa Caterina to beyond Torre Uluzzo, with forests along the shoreline and known for its beautiful pine-scented walks. You might even spot the pink flamingos.
- That there’s plenty to do here: take a boat trip, go diving, trekking or do yoga. For those who want to do something creative, take a paper-mâché or ceramics course, or join a cooking class.
- Endless wine, olive oil and cheese tastings…
- The relatively undiscovered cities to explore nearby: Lecce, Gallipoli, Otranto and Galatina.
- Santa Maria di Leuca is known as the place where two seas meet.
What you need to know…
- Nardò is within easy reach of the airports at Bari (210 km) and Brindisi (80 km).
- Some of the suites have two bedrooms – ideal for families. Our favourite is Suite Agave Weberi as it also has a lounge and kitchen.
- Each of the suites is slightly different, some without terraces (and some without baths). Check with us when booking.
- Stay long enough to enjoy a few dinners here: Chef Antonio was recently awarded ‘Emerging Chef of the Year 2022’ by Italy Food and Travel Reader Award.
Please speak to us directly about combining other destinations and properties within the area for your travel itinerary.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon