Best of both worlds
Tuscany has a 200-mile coastline but most private villas are inland… so Villa Sunshine, near Porto Ercole, is the ideal combo. Just two hours’ from Rome, it’s been a popular weekend escape for locals since the Swinging 60s.
It’s not so much the beach that is the attraction here, but the fact that it is just 15-20 minutes up a forested hill above a bustling yacht marina, giving you the best of both worlds. The owners chose it because it’s so private – you can’t see the neighbours and the views of the sea are protected forever… and although it might seem like you’re close enough to visit Florence and Rome, both two hours’ away by car, you might be tempted to simply stay put or enjoy exploring smaller hill towns nearby and the pretty islands just off the coast, particularly in the heat of summer.
Villa Sunshine was discovered about 20 years ago by a South African businessman and his wife, an Italian architect, who were introduced to the hamlet by boating friends who had been coming from Rome every weekend for years to sail and had fallen in love with its slightly faded air of vintage authenticity. Frank Sinatra discovered it too, one of many celebrities to stay at the much-loved landmark Hotel il Pellicano, a hotel opened by a pair of ‘charismatic lovers’ in 1965. ‘We have a taste for “sprezzatura”, an Italian word that captures an offhand, casual elegance, and Il Pellicano is the epitome of that,’ say the hoteliers. Even today, Porto Ercole certainly doesn’t have the glitz or glamour of some of the more touristy coastlines, but the sparkling blue Tyrrhenian Sea is crystal clear and clean. Locals are secretly thrilled that the strip of beach linking the mainland to Argentario is protected so it cannot be built on. Everyone walks to the beach or lagoon and the beach clubs. But it’s anyone’s guess how long the locals will be able to regard it as the Hamptons or Plett of Rome… Swedish hotel investors have just opened the very stylish refurb that is La Roqqa hotel, an ode to iconic Italian design in the 60s and 70s.
How will you spend your days at Villa Sunshine?
With sparkling blue coves just off the coast, the concierge service at the villa can rent a boat for you for the day from Marina Cala Galera, with an experienced skipper who’ll organise everything and spend hours sailing between pretty coves and islets with you … just idyllic! Back at the forested slopes up the hill, there is a full-time staff who cook breakfast and lunch and will happily send a dinner menu ahead for pre-shopping in nearby Orbetello, but will also organise babysitting… what more could you want from a multigenerational family holiday?
What we love!
• The views: a little like Knysna – with a bird’s eye view of the coast from the terrace under the cool pergola or the fabulously large pool.
• Boat trips or a ferry ride to Giglio Island (Isola do Giglio) are highly recommended: crystal clear coves, Roman ruins and restaurants on the beach. Just 20 minutes’ ride on the regular ferry. Giannutri (the southernmost tip) is also worth exploring.
• Their wine is sold only on the estate: they grow Sangiovese and Vermentino grapes (certified organic).
• There are lovely hilltop towns to visit: medieval Capalbio (no cars allowed, so park and walk), Magliano and Pitigliano (visit at night when the walls are lit up and also visit the oldest synagogue in Europe, dating back to 1598 – by appointment only).
• Trail runners and mountain bikers will discover great gravel and road trails.
• The Terme di Saturnia hot springs are nearby, plus a wellness centre and golf course.
• La Roqqa, affiliated with Small Luxury Hotels of the World, has just opened in September 2023 after a major refurb by Swedish investors (took 10 years to get permission). The interior combines custom-made furnishings with iconic pieces of Italian 60s and 70s design, and a superb fine dining experience at Scirocco restaurant and a glam cocktail bar is now attracting new guests to the region. Drinks on the terrace are very relaxed. Hotel il Pellicano, on the other hand, apparently a favourite of Frank Sinatra, has remained authentic.
Need to know…
• A local shuttle service can be booked to collect you at Rome airport if you don’t want to hire a car there and drive (although it’s very easy). The benefit is that your car hire can be done in Porto Ercole and the car is delivered to the house, ready for you on arrival. A relaxed way to start your holiday!
• Follow the directions carefully if you are self-driving – 2 hours by car from Rome (or Florence): Google Maps can get you lost in the last 3.5kms (whereas the local shuttles know this steep, private road very well).
• There are two villas on the estate: one is large and sleeps 12-14, suitable for groups only, and there is a well-kitted, smaller cottage that sleeps 6. Ideally, they are rented separately as Villa Sunshine only has dinner seating for 12-14 inside, and 12 on the terrace but the bbq area can seat 20. The kitchen is not large as the resident staff like to do most of the cooking. Please ask our team for more details when you enquire.
• For boat rentals, let us know if you have a skipper’s licence when you book…and take it with you.
• If you enjoy beach clubs: the owner can request preferential treatment for guests at Il Tramonto in Ortobella and Feniglia 57 in Porto Ercole (open in season only). La Roqqa’s beach club is Isolotto Beach Club and the Riva del Marchese beach bar is on a sandy beach. Both were recently redeveloped.
• Wine tasting favourites: Val di Toro and Monteverro are about 20 minutes’ away.
If Villa Sunshine isn’t available, you might also like…
If Villa Sunshine is not available on your dates, you might also like to book luxury accommodation at Masseria Pistola (sleeps 20) and Masseria Petrarolo (sleeps 18). Both are in Puglia, perfect for large multigenerational families or a number of couples who love to holiday together.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon