House in the wilderness
Sensitively restored, this charming 200-year-old farmhouse is a tranquil retreat in the Tankwa Karoo wilderness. A balm for the soul.
In the magnificent eastern highlands of the Tankwa Karoo, beneath a giant fold of the Great Escarpment, lies an historic farmhouse of unusual distinction, a guardian of the land it occupies. This is De Kruis – a house in the wilderness.
Here you will find, at journey’s end, a cool and comfortable home, carefully sheltered from its surroundings by hefty stone walls, deeply shaded outside spaces and enchanting gardens that blend into the distant veld. A gorgeous farm kitchen (flanked on either side by a separate scullery and pantry) beckons you in, and leads you through the house into a magical further living space, and then another, and another, each with vistas of the wilderness beyond. Shadows and golden light play gently across quiet rooms. Four lovely bedrooms radiate from the centre, each with a distinct outside space inviting your gaze up to the Escarpment that surrounds you on three sides. Every room tells a subtly different story – some cosseted by river-reed ceilings, others finished in old timber boards or corrugated iron, still others open to thatched roofs; all imbued with comfort and charm. Here the reconditioned AGA of old sits next to the Nespresso machine, the crystal chandelier lights the yellowwood dining table, the little Steinway stands on cool floors of dark slate quarried from the Tankwa River, and bookcases in the study carrying the latest Booker prizewinner novels overlook the birdbath and a meandering footpath down to the river.
Drawing you out into the garden beyond the stoeps are further delights: a pergola terrace with distant views to the blue mountains of the Tankwa River valley, and beyond them the great peaks of the Cederberg Mountains; a small kitchen garden with the tinkle of a water trough; a Climax windmill, pumping lazily away in the half-distance; two superb barbecue fireplaces. And then there is THAT pool – where the great South African garden designer Franchesca Watson worked her magic on De Kruis.
A day in the life of De Kruis…
Quickly you will spread yourselves about the house, finding calm and solitude in a quiet corner, following the winter sun or summer shade to the perfect stoep where you may encounter others who have done the same, spending quality time poolside (yes, THAT pool), or clubbing together with your loved ones on one of the star decks (there are two, each ascended via an outside staircase) to catch a special sunset or look in wonder at the glorious starlit sky of the Karoo. Or you may find yourselves whiling the afternoon away at the long dining table on the pergola terrace, or in the kitchen, sipping on a glass of the good stuff and pounding the beginnings of a sourdough. Others will be lost for hours in the chapters of that book that’s been passing hands over the holiday. Towards dusk, the fires will be lit, the AGA stoked, shutters closed, curtains drawn. On cool winter evenings there is a gathering together in the heart of the house; in summer, perhaps a late afternoon walk into one of the surrounding kloofs, or babble and laughter from around the pool, echoing evening bird calls and the windmill’s motion in the breeze.
This is De Kruis – a house in the wilderness, an unforgettable experience.
What we love!
- Arriving at the homestead in the late afternoon, as the golden sunlight kisses the surrounding mountains.
- Sitting on the back stoep, the front stoep, a bedroom stoep, the pergola terrace, the pool deck, a stardeck – anywhere! – enjoying the late afternoon’s golden hour, when the sun sets behind the far western mountains, witnessing the colours of the land and sky transform.
- Walking or biking along the simple tracks that take one deep into kloofs branching off the main De Kruis valley road (taken together, these extend to more than 50km).
- In summer, waking early and enjoying an outdoor shower (there are two), the solitude of early morning and the unmistakable feeling of belonging that only the African veld can bestow – ‘here I am, where I ought to be’.
- In winter, a glass or two of red wine around one of the many inside fires.
- Everything about the swimming pool.
- Discover more about the Karoo and about the De Kruis experience in our blogs.Â
What you need to know…
- The De Kruis homestead is set at the centre of an 18,000 acre tract of land (almost 7 300 hectares). It is utterly secluded. There is no other dwelling in sight, and the nearest town – Sutherland – is an hour’s drive away.
- The farm is completely off-grid – water is sourced from boreholes (rated Class 1) and power from a 33kW solar system (with back-up for rainy days). The house is fully equipped with modern appliances and amenities (although television is not missed here), and WiFi comes in via satellite.
- The homestead is accessed via an 8km gravel farm road. Although many have visited in smaller two-wheel drive cars, a high clearance vehicle is an advantage. Low profile tyres are not encouraged. Assistance and advice will gladly be provided to any guests experiencing uncertainty or difficulty, and arrangements can easily be made in advance with the managers to ferry guests and their luggage up to the homestead in one of the farm’s Land Cruisers.
- Though surrounded by high mountains, the homestead itself is at high elevation, and can experience climatic extremes. Temperatures into the low 40s are occasionally recorded in summer, while most winters bring the chance of seeing snow-capped mountains (and sometimes even snow at the house). The veld explodes with colour and vitality in spring, while autumn brings champagne air and golden light. High winds and heavy rainfall can occur at any time, though this is mostly a dry region.
- Every bedroom and all principal living rooms are equipped with wood stoves for winter (along with extra blankets and hot water bottles for each guest) and air conditioning for summer. The pool is available for use throughout the year, but takes some bravery in winter.
- Take your time and make a road trip of your journey to De Kruis: pop into historic Matjiesfontein, founded in 1884, and step back in time. It’s a chance to stretch your legs, before you turn off the N1 towards De Kruis, and wander around this one-horse ‘railway village’ where novelist Olive Schreiner once lived.Â
- Sutherland, the nearest large town to De Kruis, is home to The Southern African Large Telescope (SALT), the world-renowned astronomical centre on the hill overlooking the town. Definitely worth booking an appointment to visit.
- If De Kruis isn’t available on your dates, you might want to browse our handpicked collection of Tankwa Karoo hideaways.
Edited by Michelle Snaddon