Looking for a whacky and whimsical place to stay in Italy? When Tatler declared Castle Elvira ‘the hottest place to stay in Puglia right now’, we went to meet its charismatic owners Harvey B-Brown (an ex-Saffa) and his husband, the British pub and club owner Steve Riseley. They vividly recall the day they fell for these fairy-tale pink turrets rising up out of ancient olive and citrus groves on St Elia Ridge, just 10 minutes north of Lecce, the gloriously baroque city affectionately known as the ‘Florence of the South’. Having been boarded-up and abandoned for over a century, it took three years to sensitively restore its graffitied walls but just a few months ago, they opened their dream boutique hotel.
Who was among the first guests? Bananarama, of course. Watch their latest music video, filmed here by Harvey, a renowned artist and film maker. ‘Our guests seem to love the red glass Chanel-evator (feels like you’re travelling in a glossy Chanel nail-polish counter!), drinks on our capacious rooftop terrace for Puglia’s incredible sunsets, and the utterly gorgeous historic private dining room in the castle,’ says Harvey. ‘Not to mention a choice of three different pools where you can find quiet place to swim and indulge our gelato while listening to your favourite music on the bespoke outdoor sound system. And did I mention the private cinema with the most comfortable seating in the world?’
Castle Elvira might be ancient (built around 1890) but it not lacking in creature comforts. Steve worked with architects Filotico & Partners and specialist artisans to hide heating and cooling technology in its restored ceramic-tile floors and retouched walls, with customised lighting to offset a mix of designer and lovingly sourced antiques. Heavenly Ortigia bath amenities, aloe-vera infused pocket sprung mattresses, Conran linen and original hand-painted frescoes on the bedroom ceilings are all part of the indulgent experience of staying here today. ‘Treat yourself! Have the gelato, drink the Prosecco, ride the bicycle rickshaw, buy the bespoke jewellery in our boutique store… do what makes you happy. Do it today, we don’t know how many tomorrows we have left!’ encourages Harvey.
Needless to say, we’re smitten. Donne Commins, who travelled with Mandi Aliverti, shared her notes, scribbled down one morning after a jog: ‘You’ll think you’ve arrived at a magnificent Italian villa… but it’s a castle in Trepuzzi, Puglia. Luxurious, beautiful – and grand, of course! But as you walk around this 37-acre estate, a feeling comes over you… a feeling of pure joy, detachment, escapism… is this fairyland? A movie set? There is “something in the air”, as one of the owners describes it. Perhaps it’s because the sea wind from both coasts criss-crosses the land on which the castle has stood for hundreds of years. A sense of magic. It will tantalise your senses. Luxurious linens in pink and green. Blue and yellow. Mirrors. Art – each work telling a story at every corner. Art classes. Bicycle rides. Piped music. And with two OTT owners, both hugely respected in their creative industries, who are so passionate about what they have created. You will leave here with an overflowing cup… a golden, diamond-encrusted chalice.’
What we love!
- All the art is for sale, including Harvey’s work (see more on www.adoredandadorned.co.uk), so walls often evolve as works are replaced.
- Art experiences (non-artists welcome!): join a ‘Portrait Experience’ offered to groups of travellers (min 4 guests for a three-night stay). Life drawing classes also available.
- The authentic food: learn Pugliese pasta making and ‘Nona’s secrets’, sip home-brewed citrus cocktails (LOVE their three-wheeled mobile cocktail bar!) and eat an abundance of fresh fruits picked daily in season.
- It’s perfect for multigenerational gatherings or special celebrations, with enough privacy for everyone in the Castle and Cottage, the Tower Elvira, the ancient Masseria, and the restaurant on the estate. General Manager Giacomo Attanasio, and his hand-picked team, will organise pizza nights, movies, spa treatments, wine tasting, picnics. Simply ask on the hotel app. Nothing is too much trouble.
What you need to know…
- Brindisi Airport is only 25 minutes away, Bari, two hours by car. The Castle is 10 minutes north of Lecce.
- Castle Elvira is on a peninsula and an excellent base: not far from both Adriatic and Ionian coastlines with white sandy beaches and stunning rock pools. Visit Otranto and Santa Maria al Bangio, as well as Ostuni, Ceglia Messapica and even cliffside Matera (most recently filmed in Bond’s No Time to Die), two hour’s drive inland.
- Puglia itself is a magnet for the intrepid traveller. Richly exuberant, baroque Lecce will steal your heart. Save time to explore: it’s one of Italy’s most beautiful cities.
- Please speak to us directly about combining other destinations and properties within the area for your travel itinerary.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon