Discover an authentic medieval hamlet in Tuscany
The village that became a hotel: Castiglioncello del Trinoro is not only Val d’Orcia’s most romantic Tuscan escape but a cultural magnet for lovers of music and art. More recently, it has expanded its world-class spa and wellness retreat.
Discovered In 2005 by its American-lawyer-turned-hotelier owner, Michael Cioffi, who had returned to explore his ancestry in Italy, Monteverdi’s ancient buildings needed a brave visionary to restore them to their former glory. Steeped in history and with a church dating back to the 14th century, it’s taken over 10 years to restore this medieval hilltop gem in Tuscany with architect and interior designer Ilaria Miani who has been passionate about renovating and breathing life into some of Italy’s abandoned architectural jewels over the past twenty years.
Today, it exudes a relaxed elegance that’s authentic Italy: the softest linens and natural palettes offset ancient beamed ceilings and original stone walls within three immaculately restored buildings that now make up the hotel in the village. Two private houses, the two-bedroomed San Pietro and the three-bedroomed Amiata, are available exclusively. Amiata is spread over three floors, ideal for couples or a multigenerational family, with an indulgent main bathroom and well-kitted kitchen. One of the typical Tuscan homes in the village has six bedrooms.
Many say it’s worth making the trip here for the food alone. We love Monteverdi’s ethos: ‘Every bit, every ingredient, every sip is a love letter to Italy.’ Executive Chef Riccardo Bacciottini brings with him the experience of Michelin-starred kitchens around the world, yet his approach here is of a culinary tradition ‘reimagined through a modern lens’. But we also love that you can take a cookery class right here in the village’s former schoolhouse with Culinary Director Giancarla Bodoni and her team. There are three courses a week: Tuscan cooking, cheese making and the fundamentals of pasta, each ending with a meal created during the course and wine to celebrate. Or you can visit rural cheese farms or learn how extra virgin olive oil is harvested and pressed with wine tasting along the way.
There is, of course, so much to see in the Val d’Orcia, especially if you have a car… from historic hilltop towns with Etruscan tombs to explore, to the many culinary and outdoor experiences nearby… all of which Monteverdi’s in-house concierge team (with an extensive LBB) will assist with. You might want to go e-biking or on a guided hike in the nearby Pietraporciana nature reserve, or even try your hand at flower arranging. Or perhaps explore nearby Pienza, a beautiful Renaissance town and the home of Pecorino cheese, or charming Montepulciano, both less touristed than Siena. Chauffeur driven excursions are a delightful way of exploring, especially if you’d like to do a wine tasting along the way.
However, most guests soon retreat to the new spa and wellness centre and discover that spa therapies include artisanal massages and rituals with the finest aromatic oils and salts from Santa Maria Novella (heavenly!), while expert aestheticians will consult on personalised skin treatments. Daily yoga and Qi Gong classes are held in the studio or spa gardens. Stay here long enough and you’ll emerge rejuvenated and energised – one of the many reasons that settling in at Monteverdi for at least a week has its advantages. Cioffi once said to Vogue that he liked guests to experience what he calls ‘epicurean wellness’ here – his way, they said, ‘of explaining the idea that enjoying a plate of pici all’aglione and a Bach cello suite along with rejuvenation and relaxation leads to happiness’. We couldn’t agree more.
A curated world of art and music
However, the real heart of Monteverdi is a passion for music and art: for years, it has seen musicians perform in this beautiful Tuscan village, with a new concert series every year. And if you’re interested in art, you would want to know that Sarah McCrory, the former curator of Frieze, also curates Monteverdi’s contemporary art gallery.
The vision behind Monteverdi’s culturally rich offering and ethos? ‘Art inspires. It evokes emotion. It takes you to a place that is transformative, be it the opera, a painting, or a single note from a violin. We inspire the heart and mind with world-class art that takes you to a new appreciation of beauty.’ Only in Italy.
What we love!
- That it’s a sophisticated ‘village’ hotel: only a few residents still live here so the hotel IS the village, complete with its artist-in-residence programme, its world-renowned musical events and the dedicated art gallery, giving it a rich cultural ambience.
- That food, wine and wellness are central to life at Monteverdi: wine tastings, cookery courses, truffle hunting, olive oil tasting and a cocktail masterclass. Monteverdi also hosts chefs-in-residence, so food is always rich in culinary tradition.
- That renowned architectural practice Foster + Partners designed Zita, the new restaurant, as well as the contemporary art gallery in the village.
- Drinks on the terrace (try a glass of local Brunello wine) with its magnificent views of the rolling hills of Tuscany below. And on many nights, sundown is accompanied by the sound of music from the Fazioli piano in the lounge.
What you need to know…
- Monteverdi is only 1.5 hours from Florence Airport (150kms), two hours by transfer from Rome Airport (198km), and Pisa Airport is 2.5 hours away (210km). Pisa is a much smaller airport, which often makes it popular, and Perugia Airport (106km) is seasonally useful too (1h20mins drive).
- Chiusi-Chianciano Terme is the nearest station (1.5 to 2 hours by train from Florence and Rome). Siena is just 70km away.
- We recommend hiring a car, but if you only feel like hiring a car for a day or two once you’ve arrived and rested for a day or two, it can be arranged here.
- You can self-cater in the Private Village Houses breakfast is included, as is daily servicing, but you’re welcome to enjoy the privacy if you don’t feel like eating at the hotel each night.
- There are a total of 26 rooms and suites with two Private Village Houses. Baby cots available on request.
- The Monteverdi boutique is equally thoughtfully curated with beautiful products exclusive to Monteverdi.
- The church is currently being restored, but has been used as the performance venue and will be opening again in 2025.
- Monteverdi hosts exclusive-use celebrations (80-100 guests), but will also host intimate renewal of vows at one of the traditional Tuscan homes.
- If Monteverdi is not available over your dates, we suggest you browse our beautiful portfolio of Italian accommodation in Tuscany, Umbria and Puglia.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon