A tale of two artists
A delightfully secluded 16th-century stone farmhouse on the edge of the unspoilt village of Montaren-et-Saint-Médiers near Uzès in Provence, home to two artists’ studios, is a creative yet peaceful retreat.
Stepping inside Maison des Arts, through a fragrant cloud of jasmine, was like coming home. It’s not often that owners offer to meet you on a bicycle to navigate through the narrowest street in the village (we’re talking remember-to-pull-the-side-mirrors-in narrow), leading to the front door. Well, Sandrine and her husband Dom – whose art studios are part of this hidden hideaway – are just those sorts of welcoming people.
We learnt the next day to find our way to Rue des Amandine by the landmark striped canvas deck chair on a pretty wrought-metal balcony, just up the road from the charming brocante. Chock-full of collectables, it’s in the gentle heart of this ancient little village with an épicerie and boulangerie on the square, where Dom buys fresh bread for breakfast. And while Montaren-et-Saint-Médiers is just a few minutes’ drive from bustling Uzès, famous for its Saturday market, this adorable little spot feels a century behind in pace and soul. A perfect escape after a day spent exploring.
Provençal dreaming
Returning here each day is to lose yourself in the dream, in a village lost in time…
Breakfast begins in the sun-drenched kitchen overlooking the courtyard, a typically French haven of peaceful spots to enjoy breakfast. Tea lovers will discover delicate porcelain cups and pots collected over time, glass jars of dried lemon verbena leaves from the garden jostling with Sandrine’s paintings and ceramics… and to our amazement, rows of the famed glossy black tins of Mariage Frères loose tea, ‘Thé au Sahara’ being a favourite with sweet mint and rose petals. Take a moment to respectfully inhale the fragrance of hand-picked teas from distant lands, especially ‘Thé sur le Nil’ with high notes of citrus, and the extraordinarily smoky ‘Zodiac’.
After breakfast, take a walk past Dom’s studio, up the mysterious staircase leading to the roof. On the left is Sandrine’s creative enclave, but to the right is the pièce-de-résistance: an enormous swimming pool surrounded by ancient stone walls but opening to the secret garden behind, buzzing with cicadas as soon as the sun begins to sizzle. You could spend days here, cocooned in this private sanctuary, but will soon be tempted to get out and explore every inch of this Provençal idyll, starting with Uzès.
Inside, each one of the five en-suite bedrooms is accessed via an ancient circular staircase behind the kitchen. Original art features on every wall, of course, a colourful and ‘live’ gallery. Best of all, if you fall in love, you can buy it. But it’s the loft tower suite that steals hearts, with its own turreted eyrie (journalling here is addictive) above the bedroom, with three windows looking out over the village and garden.
Throw open the shutters every morning and let the rhythm of the church bells welcome the day. Listen to a composer practice his score up the narrow alleyway lined with nodding oleander in every shade of pink and coral imaginable, watch dozens of swallows dart back and forth to catch insects and feed their tweeting young in the eaves. Swim at dawn, swim when the moon comes up, let the evening breeze envelop you on the balcony, still warm with the scent of the fields. Savour a life lived simply, beautifully, creatively.
What we love!
- The fact that this is also the working studio of two artists: the owners, Sandrine and Dom. You can book a room or the entire house, with access to a second kitchen.Hands-down the best pool ever: it’s great for morning and evening laps. Heaven.
- A lovely fresh breakfast is served in the courtyard but you can use the farmhouse kitchen to cook dinner, especially useful on Sundays and Mondays when most restaurants are closed.
- Ask if you can spend time with 100drine (Sandrine @100drine_instaofficiel) and Dom Labreuil (@domlabreuil) in their studios if you love their art, or browse the little boutique near the kitchen (you’ll wish you’d come with space in your luggage but can always ship home a canvas).
- Parking is easy as the house is on the outskirts of the village. Definitely hire a car here – otherwise you can’t explore the charming back routes that make Provence eternally adorable.
- Maison des Arts is also bookable as a shoot location using the garden and Sandrine and Dom’s private home, an ode to the mid-century modern style they love so much.
What you need to know….
- Montaren-et-Saint-Médiers is just 4kms from Uzès (an easy walk through the countryside). Uzès is easily accessible from airports in Nimes (35 mins) or Avignon (45 mins) airports and the Paris-Avignon train (fastest on TGV INOUI at 2h36 or TGV 3h25). Or fly into Montpellier (1 hour away) or Marseilles (1h40). It’s about 4.5 hours’ drive to Geneva via Annecy so consider doing a week here and a week in the mountains or head back to the coast and fly out of Nice (3.5 hours). Private charter? Uzès-Belvezet aerodrome is 15 minutes away.
- There’s a large Intermarché supermarket and garage a short drive away – the kitchen is a great place to cook together, and the ancient courtyard prettily lit at night for dinner.
- It has one of the largest gardens – a green sanctuary directly accessed through double doors from the pool, ideal for lunches together or even small celebrations. A gem of a shoot location.
- Credit cards are widely accepted everywhere but keep some small change handy for church candles, parking and water (although the water is mostly safe to drink).
- It’s so close to historic Uzès that you can walk but it’s easier to drive in the heat. A good parking to choose is in the shade of the plane trees at Promenade des Marronniers on the park side of La Cathédrale Saint Théodorit d’Uzès (1090, but rebuilt in 1652). It’s worth spending some quiet time here – side altars are particularly pretty and the 17th-century organ dramatic. From here, head straight into the heart of the old town and simply wander, stopping at its stylish boutiques, listening to the bells, popping into galleries or exploring the market and eating ice cream. The famous Uzès market is on Saturday. People-watching is obligatory here. If you’ve watched Rick Stein’s Secret France, you’ll find Ten restaurant about five minutes’ walk away. One of our favourite stops, among the chi-chi boutiques, is the teeny tiny Japanese design store called Liiocô (3 Rue Pélisserie). Don’t miss the back streets! And come back one evening when everything is lit up.
- Visit Saint-Quentin-La-Poterie, a nearby village full of ceramic studios – often open for lessons or summer festivals. And, of course, Nimes, Arles, Avignon and a dozen other beaut spots are a day trip away.
- Pont du Gard, the first-century AD Roman masterpiece is just 15 mins further from Uzès. A designated car park (currently 9E per car, flat fee) is about 15 minutes’ walk from the aqueduct itself. In summer, sound and light shows are spectacular. Do as the locals do: pack a picnic and walk across to the other side where there are lovely sandy beaches and swimming spots along the river.
- The house may be booked exclusively (min one week stay in July/August) and can sleep up to 12-15 (10 adults and 5 children in 5 bedrooms. Two baby beds, baby bath and high chair available). If Maison des Arts isn’t available, speak to our team or browse other French hideaways.
- Maison des Arts is available as a shoot location.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon