By Anji Connell
Edited by Michelle Snaddon
Discover the seductive serenity of Schrywershoek Beach House, a sensitively restored fisherman’s cottage in the heart of the West Coast National Park on South Africa’s wild West Coast.
Expect flowers, fynbos, flamingos and more, but above all, a remote sanctuary so peaceful it will restore your soul.
Imagine staying in a picture-perfect, thatched fisherman’s cottage immersed in nature. The magnificent wonders of a coastal paradise, sitting on the edge of a white sand beach [which, by the way, is all yours] and a tranquil azure lagoon, backdropped by mountains with front-row seats for awe-inspiring sunrises and sunsets and sublime starlit nights — and a continual parade of captivating wildlife, including a daily visit of bontebok arriving as the sun goes down to munch happily on your front lawn! Oh, and the roar of the Atlantic Ocean in the background is a constant. Are you with me? Well, this is just what’s in store for you at the remote Schrywershoek Beach House on the Cape’s West Coast.
You’ll discover this off-grid gem nestled at the bottom of a winding pathway with absolute privacy in the breathtaking West Coast National Park on South Africa’s West Coast. There are so many incredible places to stay in South Africa, but this is where you’ll find discerning locals and in-the-know savvy international visitors who fall in love as it lacks none of the modern-day comforts despite its humble vernacular architecture, typical of a whitewashed fisherman’s cottage — so do keep it to yourself, please!
Arguably a ‘destination bolthole’, arriving here feels like a symbolic separation from the outside world and the stresses of daily life. Immediately, you feel freer. After all, this is a place where life is so slow that tortoises have right of way on the roads!
Schrywershoek Beach House is the perfect antidote to the non-stop nature of our lives that is creating a demand for calm spaces where we can slow down and simply ‘be’. It champions the art of slow living, encourages you to take time to look around and find joy in the simple things…
The main house is part of the original traditional fisherman’s cottage with a bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, lovely cosy living area, comfy seating and a wood-burning stove. There are games, magazines and books thoughtfully placed on the coffee table, and there’s a TV, a rarity in the West Coast National Park, where most guests come to detox for a few days.
There are two additional annexes on either side of the main house, one with a single private suite and the other has a further two interconnecting suites for families. But the favourite gathering spot is without doubt the indoor-outdoor dining pavilion on one side of the main house with fold-back louvre shutters opening to expansive views of the garden, gently lapping lagoon and rolling hills beyond. It is here that antelope frequently come to drink – in fact, it’s so active that it’s like having your own David Attenborough programme running in the background!
Holiday homes offer a retreat from daily routines, providing rejuvenation and relaxation, promoting mental well-being, and a break from stress. A well-designed holiday home enhances the experience through comfort, functionality, and aesthetic appeal. Thoughtful layouts that optimise space, carve out stunning views and create opportunities for entertainment, relaxation, and reflection.
Schrywershoek has it in spades. A dream team of interior designers, led by Cape Town’s Clinton Savage, have renovated and added to the heritage building thoughtfully and creatively. The interiors are contemporary but very relaxed. Nothing detracts from the views, yet it holds your eye. There is plenty of interest, texture and pops of colour. Nothing flashy or garish. All is soothing and welcoming. You feel immediately at home. Full-height windows let in the sunlight and full-on views.
The modern additions to the original fisherman’s cottage let the charm of the old building shine and all seamlessly integrate with its natural surroundings, creating an oasis that invites you to savour an unhurried pace of life and connect with the natural splendour all around, offering simple yet luxurious living. A wonderful sense of place draws a strong emotional connection, evoking a sense of familiarity and belonging. Thank goodness there are still places in the world where time slows down, wild and remote, providing clarity and a promise of discovery.
Schrywershoek Beach House is one of them. The unique combination of sights, sounds, smells, and experiences makes a place feel distinct and memorable. It’s like the intangible spirit or soul of a place that leaves a lasting impression and a range of emotions that influence our perceptions, behaviour, and interactions, leaving a lasting impact.
Need a digital detox?
In an era where we spend so much time on our computers and smartphones, managing our relationships on social media and mobile messengers, a stay at Schrywershoek allows you to take your time observing what goes on in the world around you — to rest and truly relax. Here, you can experience what it feels like to watch and be part of the magical nature all around, enjoying another day in paradise, complete with utter privacy, a relaxed interior, absolute comfort, an incredible location, resounding peace and quiet and heavenly views.
Schrywershoek Beach House is a place to gather with friends and family, enjoy happy times together making memories. Laughter around the braai, stargazing at night. Schrywershoek’s inherent calm allows you time to focus on the colours of the trees and plants and the various densities of light in the sky are reflected in the water and the landscape. You see the gradual changes in the facial expressions of friends’ faces as they relax in the peaceful surroundings.
What’s not to love?
The only thing I thought might be a problem was the lack of air-con, but the house was perfectly cool even in high summer. The cooler evenings meant we could light up the wood-burning stove and enjoy the flickering glow of the golden flames with the front door open to the views. Just fabulous!
All rooms have sleek black fans, but we didn’t need to use them. The annexe rooms have floor-to-ceiling glass windows and sliding doors opening to captivating views. The small-paned windows to the original building have traditional wooden shutters in a refreshing, bright blue. Last but not least, a little pathway down the side of the walled garden leads to a perfectly placed wooden deck over the beach.
WHAT TO DO
Spring flowers, fynbos and more…
The West Coast National Park is a paradise for nature enthusiasts who come annually from around the world to explore the park’s winding trails through fynbos-covered hills reveals a tapestry of colourful flowers and aromatic herbs. The park is less than two hour’s drive from Cape Town International Airport, yet it’s a massive carpet of wildflowers in spring, usually between August and September (Mother Nature decides), especially if there are good seasonal rains in the winter. Late rains tend to delay the earliest spring Namaqualand spring flowers but when they open up and turn their heads to the sun, they are are truly spectacular swathes of colour – The Postberg Section of the park is only open to the public during the flower season (a ‘flower hotline’ is set up for visitors to call to confirm opening dates), but a visit is doubly rewarding as this is where you will see most of the wild animals in the National Park.
Captivating wildlife encounters
As you drive the sandy roads through Postberg, you might be lucky and spot eland, red hartebeest, Cape grysbok, bontebok, kudu, gemsbok, steenbok, mountain zebra, duiker and ostriches. One of the best things, for me, is watching the graceful pale pink flamingo population move from exposed sand bank to sand bank as the gentle tides wash to and fro. As the sun begins to set, nocturnal animals emerge, granting you a glimpse into their mysterious world. Look out for caracals, bat-eared foxes and duikers as they gracefully navigate their habitat.
Whales and dolphins
During August and September, at the Tsaarsbank section of the park facing the Atlantic Ocean, you might be lucky to see spectacular displays of the Southern Right whales as they swim along the coastline. Keep an eye open for dolphins, especially if you’re out for a walk at dawn or dusk.
Calling all twitchers…
The park is a birder’s heaven where, if you are lucky, you will see the endangered African black oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini), the largest of all oystercatcher species and easily identifiable by their vivid orange beaks, legs and feet. The tidal flats of the Langebaan Lagoon are a protected ‘bird airport’ and are the southernmost wintering site of long-distance migratory Arctic shorebirds along the East-Atlantic Flyway, such as knots, curlew sandpipers and grey plovers. Keep a look out for the more unusual bar-tailed godwit, terek sandpiper and chestnut-banded plover.
Wandering along the beaches in the early morning when the mists are still rising, when thousands of birds on the nearby rocks and islands are still waking up, is a treat. The bird hides at Seeberg, Abrahamskraal and Geelbek, all of which are fantastic locations to enjoy bird watching and good to combine with a visit to the restaurant and information centre at Geelbek.
For the more active among you…
If you can steal yourself away from the house, there are short and long marked trails in the park, some taking a few hours, others one to two days, as well as several mountain bike and cycling routes. One of the hiking trails starts at the Geelbek Visitors Centre. There are two circular walking trails, one 7km and one 9 km, that take a route past the dunes, and the 7km trail also goes across a section of the beach.
Follow in the ancient footprints of Eve
A 2.5-day guided trail of 30 kilometres will allow you to experience a route similar to a young woman who walked these shorelines 117 000 years ago. The original fossilised footprints named Eve were found in rock in 1995 around the coast of Langebaan Lagoon and a replica is exhibited at the Geelbek Information Centre, inside the restored Cape Dutch building, a national monument and home to the Geelbek Restaurant.
If you’re keen to do the trail, read the fascinating story behind these extraordinary finds by Professor Lee Roberts Berger of the University of the Witwatersrand in Johannesburg, South Africa, and geologist Professor David Roberts of the Council for Geoscience.
After a day chilling, pizza making and stoking up the braai, creating delicious meals, breathing pure air, and soaking up all the feel-good vibes, a deep sleep is guaranteed in this magical spot that leaves you refreshed and dying to do it all again. There are so many things to love about Schrywershoek Beach House. It’s a beautiful haven to return to unwind after a day of exploration.
I will be back — soon!
Tip: Don’t forget your bathing cozzie.
HOW TO GET THERE
The West Coast National Park is 1.5-2 hours’ drive from the centre of Cape Town or the airport. Please take note of the following gate times for entering and leaving the West Coast National Park: 1 April to 31 August 07:00 to 17:30; 1 September to 31 March 07:00 to 18:30. No entrance into the park is possible after the gates close in the evenings.
There is a per person, per day entrance fee due to enter the park. Please check the SANPARKS website for latest fee tariffs – It may be worth investing in a Wild Card.
Upon Churchhaven's tranquil shore, where wonders never cease,
Schrywershoek Beach House stands in beauty and in peace.
Where lagoon waters meet coastal fynbos' embrace,
Marshlands teem with life and grace.
Birdsong fills the air, bontebok graze in sunny fields,
Amongst pink flamingos' hues, the sanctuary yields.
Mountains rise afar, as if nature's towering shield,
And through the sky and lagoon, breathtaking colours wield.
The Atlantic's mighty roar, a symphony profound,
Echoes through the scenery, its wild spirit unbound.
In this place of awe and wonder, where nature's beauty speaks,
Churchhaven and Schrywershoek, a sanctuary for those who seek.
To book luxury accommodation in Schrywershoek, or any other hideaway Churchhaven or up the West Coast, please contact our experienced reservations team.
If Schrywershoek Beach House is not available, you might also like these hideaways in
Churchhaven or the West Coast.
